Yanmar YB10

[vt-preikschas 0]

OK, ich habe es getestet, egal ob ich das Pedal trete oder ziehe es „brummt“ die gleiche Leitung. Das sieht dann doch nach einfach wirkend aus, schade…

Dann wird doch ein kleiner Umbau nötig oder ein starrer Böschungslöffel und einfach nicht quer zum Hang abziehen.

Ich danke für die Antworten 😊

[vt-preikschas 0]

Ich bin noch auf der Suche nach einem Schaltplan von dem Bagger, kann mir da jemand weiter helfen? Die Elektrik ist im großen und ganzen recht überschaubar, aber in den letzten Jahren scheint es ein paar Reparaturen und Umbauten gegeben zu haben, dadurch wird es recht unübersichtlich. Ggf wäre ein Übersichtsplan von einer ähnlichen Maschine als Anhaltspunkt hilfreich.

Ich habe das typische Problem, als Starkstromer ist mir KFZ Elektrik suspekt 😅

Beste Grüße

[D.Fabio 0]

On 4/15/2019 at 5:17 PM, Highdigiman said:

Unfortunately I didn't get any help from the forum to repair the drive (gearbox part) so I had to help myself again. So that I am not left alone with the knowledge I have learned, I have written instructions for it. Maybe I can help someone with it:

 

Repair gearbox drive mini excavator YANMAR YB10:

 

Remove the rubber chain: Unscrew the grease nipple screw (inlet for grease for tensioning the chain) and push the grease out / push the chain back, remove the chain

 

preparation

-Drain the oil (ie the rest of the oil that is still in there) (lower of pos. 30) - Unscrew the Allen screw

-Remove the hydraulic motor. Two M12 screws with nuts on the hydraulic motor (item 24)

- Unscrew four M12 screws (item 25) on the gearbox / undercarriage

-Screw in four long M12x1.75 screws, put on a stable plate and gradually loosen the gearbox from the undercarriage (it slides backwards on two bolts)

 

Open gear:

-Heat screws (M10) (Allen, Item 23) and unscrew; there is a possibility that the heads of the two screws that were covered by the undercarriage are so rusted that you have to drill them away. Then gradually loosen the upper part from the lower part with four screwed-in screws M12x1.75 (there is a centering bolt at 12 o'clock on the large part)

 

Disassemble the gearbox:

-Apply markings (number of strokes, point, etc.) and take pictures (for each step)

-Heat the ball bearings of the two smaller gears (pos. 3. and pos. 5) and remove them

-Remove the snap ring (item 20) from the shaft of the large gear

-Remove ball bearing (item 13) (heat if necessary)

- remove large gear (pos. 4)

-Remove the intermediate ring (Item 9)

-Remove the rear ball bearing (item 12) (heat if necessary)

-Remove the sealing ring (or what is left of it) (item 19)

 

- clean all parts properly (cold cleaner, diesel / gasoline mix)

-Clean sealing surfaces, remove all sticky residues

 

Get the following spare parts:

-1x oil seal / shaft seal ring Yanmar E-Part number: 1431205085 (old number E

-2x deep groove ball bearings FAG6006 (open type)

-2x deep groove ball bearings FAG6007 (open type)

-1x deep groove ball bearing FAG6208 (open type)

-1x deep groove ball bearing FAG6210-C (open type)

-1xO-ring 84x2.0mm NBR type (because of oil)

 

The teeth of the gears must be checked for damage - especially if the gear unit ran without oil and / or one or more of the ball bearings were broken. The ball bearing behind the large cog wheel in particular is often broken because this is where the greatest stress from the chain (often too tight) is present. Then there is also damage to the 50mm shaft. The damage must then be turned off on the lathe. In no case turn off more than 50mm. The impacts on the shaft are filled with Loctite "joining / hub / shaft" when the ball bearings are placed / pressed on. The same applies to the part of the shaft on which the shaft seal is placed. If the teeth are damaged,Very carefully sand away grooves or sharp edges with the serrated lock washer (200+ grit) - very gently; in no case take away more than necessary! If in doubt, show the gears to a specialist. Create a seal with 0.5mm sealing paper (available in stores for a few euros, DIN A3). For example, you can put the (clean) gearbox cover on a copier and make a copy. Cut a long hole in the middle of the copy. Then place the lid on the sealing paper and cut out all around. Place the copy on the sealing paper and position it. Now knock out the holes exactly (pothole pins, punch) and finally cut out the inner side of the sealing surface. The seal is done.Make a seal using 5mm sealing paper (available in stores for a few euros, DIN A3). For example, you can put the (clean) gearbox cover on a copier and make a copy. Cut out a long hole in the middle of the copy. Then place the lid on the sealing paper and cut out all around. Place the copy on the sealing paper and position it. Now knock out the holes exactly (pothole pins, punch) and finally cut out the inner side of the sealing surface. The seal is done. Make a seal using 5mm sealing paper (available in stores for a few euros, DIN A3). For example, you can put the (clean) gearbox cover on a copier and make a copy. Cut out a long hole in the middle of the copy.Then place the lid on the sealing paper and cut out all around. Place the copy on the sealing paper and position it. Now knock out the holes exactly (pothole pins, punch) and finally cut out the inner side of the sealing surface. The seal is done. Place the copy on the sealing paper and position it. Now knock out the holes exactly (pothole pins, punch) and finally cut out the inner side of the sealing surface. The seal is done. Place the copy on the sealing paper and position it. Now knock out the holes exactly (pothole pins, punch) and finally cut out the inner side of the sealing surface. The seal is done. 

 

Reassemble the gearbox in reverse order or press in the bearings. Insert the seal and lubricate the front and back with a suitable sealant adhesive - not too much so that nothing runs into the gearbox. Tighten Allen screws to 70Nm. Screw in the lower Allen screw (oil drain) (Loctite). Use Loctite for all screws. Clean the undercarriage, carefully clean the hydraulic motor so that no sand gets into the gearbox or the sealing surfaces. Mount the gearbox on the undercarriage, but first apply grease to the bolts. Tighten the four screws one after the other, piece by piece and at the end with 100Nm. Place / check seal (O-ring, item 18) on the hydraulic pump; do not forget the metal ring (item 10)!Put the hydraulic motor on and screw it tight (100Nm). Fill in gear oil (Yanmar approval) up to the control screw (approx 500mL) and close the two Allen screws (Loctite). All screws are secured with Loctite. Tension the chain with the correct chain tension according to the instructions (in the middle lower edge up to the chain 4-5cm jacked up).

Before I reattached the gearbox to the undercarriage, I added wax to the Allen screws so that they wouldn't rot so quickly. In 10 to 15 years I can say whether it has helped.

I certainly don't have to emphasize that all operating materials / liquids must be collected and must not get into the environment. Use pads and covers. Dispose of operating materials, seals and liquids in an environmentally friendly manner. Be careful when handling torches, impact wrenches, hammers, etc.! If necessary and if necessary, have work carried out by specialists! These instructions are intended as an aid to the work, but I cannot guarantee the completeness of the steps one hundred percent. I am a private person and cannot be held responsible for any errors that may result from using this manual - so all work is done at your own risk!

 

Good luck and if it worked, write it in here! Best regards Lui April 2019

 

Hi Lui,

Very informative post, I just got a YB10 which hasn't been maintained in many years a few weeks ago, it is in very bad shape, but all the functions work except that some particle (part of an old seal of a hydraulic ram, according to old owner) is blocking one valve in one direction. I was planning on walking the machine home to work on it, about 700 meters, but checked the oil in the drive motors first, and found than one had no oil, and the other had water in the oil 😬 so I have changed the oil, and I'm planning on running it a little bit, and then change it again. I was wondering about how the oil plugs are sealed, I can see that on bigger machines they are sealed with o-rings or teflon tape, if I understand it correctly you just sealed them with locktite 2701 thread lock? I really don't want to do that, because 1 of the plugs on each side were already very hard to get out (rusted so bad that the allen key didn't fit, so I had to hammer in a torx bit), is there any other better option for sealing them. I don't have any experience working on heavy equipment, so any help would be much appreciated 😀  

PS I don't want to spend a lot of money on the machine, I just want a machine that is working mechanically, and that is why I'm trying to protect the expensive parts like the drive motors as best as I can.

PPS Does anyone have the workshop, owners and parts list manuals for the Yanmar YB10 in PDF, or can tell me where I can buy them? I found the parts list manual for the YB10-2, which is helpful, but it doesn't seem like it is exactly the same.

Best regards,

Fabio

bearbeitet 23. November 2021 von D.Fabio

[Highdigiman 8]

Hey Fabio; for information only: not all threads here come from me. There are also other authors who have written something here. I got the information about the Loctite from a construction machinery expert. He strongly recommends that. In addition, Loctite can be removed easily if you heat it up properly (> 120 ° C). Actually, you do that with all screws anyway, because everything is always rusty and "fixed like welded". Screws that have to be tight for a long time are therefore best sealed with Loctite stuff. I bought copies of the manual and parts list. If you are interested you have to send me a private message. I wish you every success with screwing and a lot of fun working with the YB10! Greetings Lui

[D.Fabio 0]

Thanks for the fast reply  Yeah I know that not all the treads are from you, but your post about the drive motor rebuild just made me so happy that I checked the oil in the drive motor before I ran the machine too long, because according to some of your pictures, the drive motor that had a bearing issue also had water in the oil? (the oil at least looked milky, as it often does if it's mixed with water) which might be the reason the bearing failed in the first place?  Oh I didn't know that you could break loctite with heat, always just brute force 😬 I have of course used heat to get bolts out (expanding the metal), but never specifically for the loctite  If you could send the manuals that you have to ba1003k7(a)gmail.com that would be amazing, thanks in advance Fabio.